Bob Dunlap is a renowned expert on most of todays and yesterday’s important AND obscure firearms. He has been a warranty station for most manufacturers, both large and small. His understanding of the design, function, and repair of firearms in general is unsurpassed, and his appreciation of European and exotic arms is legendary among his students. The Makarov was an extremely successful Soviet Bloc service pistol, and its 9x18 cartridge is an amazingly entertaining jack rabbit motivator. The guns have been imported to the U. S. in big numbers since the collapse of the Evil Empire and this course is designed to help all of you owners who love the gun, but are a little mystified about its workings. In typical AGI fashion, we use a cut-away gun that allows you to actually see how the various parts work and interact.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this Russian semi-auto pistol apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• Pistol was designed by Nikolai Makarov in the late ‘40’s and became the Russian service weapon from 1951 thru 1991
• Most of the guns were made in China, Russia, and east Germany, with quality in the same order, lowest to highest
• 9x18 (.355 cal) cartridge is actually 9.25 mm (.366 cal) and thus could not be used in NATO weapons
• Gun is a good value, and currently it is also relatively cheap on the surplus market
• Was designed to have few parts, hard to lose parts, and easy to disassemble
• Pistol is a conventional double action, straight blow back operated pistol
• Bears a strong resemblance to the Walther PP/PPk, both physically and in some of its design features

Design & Function

• Straight blow back operation demonstrated and defined
• Ejection and extraction for blow back systems explained and demonstrated. Why extractors in these guns don’t really extract
• How the typical probability of East Bloc cartridge case failure in their firearms is considered in the design of the extractor
• Slide face is fully enclosed and the case head is surrounded by steel so that it cannot fall off the extractor, making ejection very reliable
• The barrel ramp ends slightly above the magazine box, making stub jams likely with anything other than pointed military ball ammo. It needs to be lowered somewhat to reliably feed other types of ammo
• Demonstration and explanation of the slide stop operation
• Fire control system operation, both double and single action
• Interesting grip screw retention shown, it’s on Russian and Chinese guns
• Fire control system removed and its intricacies shown and explained
• The disconnect system, how the slide configuration cams the trigger bar out of engagement
• Hammer rebound and safety operation shown, and the four things that the safety does and how it does it
• The trigger guard, what else it does and how it does it

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, and instructions on how to take apart those parts/assemblies not disassembled
• Explanation of why the guns have different rear sights and grips, Clinton era “points” system. Rear sight removal from Russian gun
• Field stripping the gun
• Slide and recoil spring removal
• Slide stop removal
• Grip removal
• Mainspring removal
• Slide stop, sear, and hammer removal
• Trigger and trigger guard removal
• Barrel removal and disassembly demonstrated
• Slide disassembly
• Slide disassembly continues with the extractor and firing pin blocking safety
• Magazine disassembly explained and shown
• You get a good look at how the various parts fit together and interact (particularly the springs) after they are removed from the gun and Bob “’splains” things

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob” way, and what kind he likes

Troubleshooting

• Barrel cleaning
• Sear assembly
• Slide stop
• Extractor rules

Reassembly

• Pins, slave and tapered, hook, punches, etc. Helpful tools that may be required to help you get a gun back together easier
• Slide reassembly; extractor, safety, firing pin
• Barrel reassembly
• Trigger, trigger bar, and trigger guard reassembly
• Hammer, sear, and slide stop reassembly
• Mainspring reassembly
• Trigger action problem areas shown and the corrections explained
• Grip replacement and final assembly
• Magazine reassembly and testing
• Feeding and firing cycle shown and explained
• Final thoughts

Accessories

• Spare parts to keep on hand
• .380 ACP barrel
• Extended magazine release
• Summary

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Makarov owner, or someone who intends to be.

Marlin 39 & 39A Lever Action Rifles

For over 110 years boys have been filling their dreams with Marlin\'s little lever action .22 rifle and its successors.  These are the world\'s most popular .22 lever actions and there are millions of them around. 

The Golden Model 39A started life as the Marlin Model 1891, the first lever action rifle ever chambered in .22LR. The tubular magazine was changed to front-loading with the Model 1892. The 1892 gave way to the takedown Model 1897, which became the Model 39 in 1921 and Model 39-A in 1937. The Golden Model 39A Mountie was introduced in 1954. The 39 was produced until 1983 when the current Golden 39A with the cross bolt safety was introduced. Changes between models were so minimal the rifle is considered to have been continually produced to the same basic specifications for over 110 years.

Until now there just wasn\'t any information available to the average owner on how to care for and improve these guns.  Instructor Bob Dunlap shows everyone how to completely strip the gun down, put it back together, and what to look for in the process. Bob  understands the design, function, and repair of James Marlin’s classic lever gun design as well or better than any other gunsmith alive today. He uses a cut-away gun to enable you to actually see how the internal parts work together, and their functional interrelationships. Now you can learn what each part is supposed to do, and how this great design has been the basis of one of the most successful guns ever made.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get the “Best Selling Lever Action .22 in History” apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course). Get a copy of this course now, you\'ll be glad you did.

Among the items covered are:

History

• Discussion of the commonalities between the Marlin lever guns, whether they are the smaller rimfire, the medium size pistol cartridge centerfire, or the full size rifle caliber centerfire guns.
• Interesting magazine tube arrangement on an original ’97 is shown
• Why the cartridge stop (that really isn’t) was done away with in the 1983 redesign
• Guns are extremely accurate and robust, they rarely break
• Many of these guns that are almost a century old are still in use today
• Designed by James Marlin, they share some very clever and innovative design flourishes with the Marlin centerfires.

Design & Function

• Lever and locking system operation demonstrated with the cut away
• What locks the bolt in place, what the lever pushes against that actually retracts the bolt
• Operation of the cartridge carrier and the carrier rocker demonstrated and explained
• The metal that actually takes the force of the cartridge firing, and it is NOT the lever pivot screw as you might think
• Cartridge feeding and the operation of the primary and secondary cartridge stops
• The spring that keeps the cartridge from high feeding is shown
• Extractor and ejector operation, and how to “Turn the ejector off”. What it accomplishes besides letting you clean the bore from the breech end
• The four different extractors used over the years, and what fits what
• Why the gun ejects so well, and what to do if it doesn’t
• Secondary cartridge stop operation
• Hammer, sear, and safety operation explained and shown
• Explanation and demonstration of positive and negative hammer/sear engagement
• Troubleshooting: Carrier travel, what to do if it doesn’t go down far enough

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including hammer strut, and carrier button
• As the parts are disassembled from the gun, Bob again goes over the interaction between the part and its spring, as well as the other parts that work with it
• Buttstock removal shown
• Hammer spring and right (lower) receiver disassembly demonstrated and explained
• Upper receiver disassembled
• Carrier rocker disassembly shown, and discussion of the removal and replacement of the newer plunger style button
• Bolt disassembled
• Magazine and forearm removal shown
• Front sight removed

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob” way, and what kind he likes

Reassembly

• Carrier rocker reassembly
• Ejector reassembly
• Bolt reassembly, correcting firing pin issues
• Trouble shooting tips: Cartridge cutoff
• Right (lower) receiver reassembly
• Adjusting the cartridge stop for reliable operation
• Front sight reassembly
• Upper receiver reassembly
• Forearm and magazine reassembly
• Carrier rocker re-insertion
• Final assembly and testing
• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”

Accessories

• Scopes
• Offset Hammer spur
• Sling swivels and their proper location (don’t try for the Bullseye)

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “visual demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Marlin 39/39A rimfire lever gun owner, or someone who intends to be.

• Marlin Lever Action Rifles – Models 1894, 1895, 444, and 336

Bob Dunlap understands the design, function, and repair of James Marlin’s classic lever gun design as well or better than any other gunsmith alive today. All of these rifles are essentially the same mechanically. The only difference between the pistol caliber ‘94’s and the other guns is the fact that their bolts are square and the right side of the action is open all the way to its rear. They are operationally identical as well and disassemble the same way. Bob uses a cut-away gun to enable you to actually see how the internal parts work together, and their function. If you want the “quick” course on how to get the Marlin half of the two “Best Selling Rifles in America” , the other half being the Model ‘92 and ’94 Winchesters,  apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).

History

• Discussion of the  Marlin, Winchester and Savage smokeless powder designs of lever actions that were all introduced within a couple of years of each other
• Explanation of the evolution of the Marlins from square bolt to round bolt and the reasons why
• Square bolt design brought back for nostalgic reasons in 1969 for pistol cartridges
• Why the Marlin had a huge edge over the Savage 99 and the Winchester ’94 when it came to mounting scope sights
• Quality status of the current manufacture guns vs the originals

Design & Function

• Explanation and demonstration of the operation of the locking block and split firing pin safety using a cut away gun
• Demonstration of the bolt retraction operation and firing pin retraction by the lever
• Function of the lever detent plunger
• Explanation and demonstration of the feeding cycle
• How the front of the carrier serves as the secondary cartridge stop
• How the lever and the loading gate function as the primary cartridge stop
• Display of the hammer/sear relationship and interaction, as well as safety notch
• Operation of the later “S” model guns’ crossbolt safety
• Description of the modern extractor
• Explanation as to why Bob thinks “The Unthinkable” about this gun

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including safety detent screw, lever detent plunger, detent plunger cross pin, and carrier rocker detent plunger
•  Positive and negative extractors described, and which you must have for reliable extraction
• How the firing pin spring breaks contact between front and rear firing pins
• How the firing pin retraction by the lever works

Common Problems & Their Solutions

• Firing pin breakage
• Mistiming of the carrier, what causes it, and how you fix it
• Headspace issues and their proper correction
• Demonstration of the proper way to improve the trigger
• How to fix the sear if your “trigger job” went awry

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”

Common Variations

• 1894 square bolt disassembled
• 1895 .45/70 Stainless Steel Guide Gun
• Final thoughts, and another apology to John Browning

With over 4 million of these inexpensive little .22\'s out there, this is your chance to really get ahead. These rifles were sold under several different names, and even through department stores like Sears, Western Auto, and Montgomery Wards. This course is applicable to all models. Those of us who have owned one of these neat little rifles know they are great for accuracy and reliability, but when they do go bad it\'s hard to find someone who knows how to fix them. Well, here\'s your chance to learn what it takes to keep your gun up and running or simply ways to repair the ones you picked up cheap. Join Master Gunsmith Bob Dunlap for two hours of instruction on the design and function of one of the best selling guns of our time. As always Bob uses a custom cutaway and shows complete disassembly of the gun, and gives tips on what repairs are common and how to fix them yourself. Not only is it fun and informative, but you\'ll be able to take advantage of some of the best deals in the gun market today. If you want the “quick” course on how to get these Marlin/Glenfield rifles apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

• Bob discusses the Marlin Model 99 and its variations
• Early and later models of the Marlin 99 are compared

• We get to look at an earlier Marlin 99 that has a unique bolt lock and it is compared to a later model which has a bolt that locks open on an empty chamber
• Through comparisons of various models, we get a feel for the evolution of this rifle
• Other comparisons, such as: trigger guards, feed throats, and ejectors, show us that this rifle’s design and quality improved as it evolved
• Papoose Model
• Two piece stock (Model 49) is discussed

• A cutaway firearm is utilized to be able to see normally hidden parts, their function, and interaction
• Trigger mechanism operation is explained and shown
• Bob explains some problems that can occur with the disconnector/trigger bar and the sear, and how to correct those problems as well
• Firing pin and hammer operation explained and demonstrated
• Bob explains how hammer follow down can occur, resulting in misfires and the possibility of the gun doubling
• Recoil buffer operation is explained
• We are shown how the recoil buffer wears and what to watch out for as it wears
• Caution is given because a cracked or broken buffer can cause the bolt to damage the back of the receiver
• Ammunition feeding is explained. The carrier and the primary and secondary cartridge stops can be seen in action and their functions are demonstrated
• Feeding problems and their repairs are explained
• Bolt operation is demonstrated and the sequence of events is explained
• Disconnector and sear operation is explained and demonstrated
• Old vs. new trigger plate assemblies; the differences can be seen and are described

• The Papoose Model is shown and its operation is explained
• Magazine’s front and rear lips functions are explained, along with some problems you may encounter

• Magazine and stock removal
• Trigger guard and nut are taken off of the stock
• Trigger plate and bolt removal
• Magazine tube disassembly is explained
• Bolt disassembly (roller, firing pin, and extractors)
• Right and left extractors and their functions are explained
• Trigger housing is disassembled and explained
• Fire control system is disassembled and all parts are further explained

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob” way, and what kind he likes

• Trigger housing reassembly
• Bolt is reassembled
• Fire Control Reassembly
• Receiver and stock reassembly
• Operational tests and summary

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Marlin/Glenfield .22 rifle owner, or someone who intends to be.

Models 1889, 1890, 1891, 1892, 1893, 1894, 1895, 1896 and 1898 Mausers from 2 World Wars, countless smaller wars, and dozens of country\'s arsenals are back on the market in many variations. Applicable to all models and later variations. Highly detailed, Ken shows you multiple models and explains their differences. This is the most widely used, highly respected, and prolific bolt action battle rifle ever made. From 1889 when Paul Mauser began the development of his front locking military bolt actions to the near perfect Model \'98, and its rapid adoption by the Imperial German Army a century ago,  through the present day, the \'98 and its variations have been in combat somewhere in the world in every decade. Complete instructions for disassembly to the last screws and pins, inspection, cleaning, and reassembly will make you an expert on the care of these guns.
This course is designed to help all of you owners who love the gun, but are a little mystified about its workings. In true AGI fashion, we use a custom cut-away gun that allows you to actually see how the various parts work and interact.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this timeless, classic, bolt action rifle apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• Peter Paul Mauser and his brother Wilhelm were the youngest of 13 children, and their father was a Master Gunsmith at the German Imperial Firearms factory at Oberndorf. Several of their brothers worked there as well.
• One of the Mauser brothers emigrated to America and went to work for Remington
• First Mauser turn bolt design was in 1866 and was a variation on the American Dreyse “Needle Gun” design
• First success was the Model 1871, adopted by the German Army in that year
• Wilhelm and Peter Paul (Paul) Mauser founded their own company. Paul was the genius designer and Wilhelm was the bookkeeper and salesman
• Wilhelm died in 1882
• In 1888 the “Commission” rifle was adopted by the German Army. It was not a Mauser design but had two forward, 180 degree opposed, locking lugs, an idea that Paul would adopt the next year in the 1889, the first of the “modern” Mausers, and the forerunner of the 1891
• Belgium adopted the 1889
• One of Mauser’s greatest ideas was the “Stripper clip”
• !889-1891 “give aways” are the external magazine and what is now called a “Sako” style extractor
• All models through 1896 cock on closing
• From 1893 0n they have the full length claw extractor and “Controlled round” feeding
• Paul Mauser always included the best features from his previous guns in his evolutionary newer models.
• The 1898 was his perfected bolt gun
• Paul Mauser died in 1913, but the company continued on
• .22LR military training rifles were made both before and between the wars
• Mauser collecting really started in the 1950’s. Ken tells you how to tell an “original” gun
• If you have an original, DO NOT cut it up and “sporterize” it, sell it to a collector and buy a “parts” gun for sporterizing
• Mauser collectors’ books shown

Design & Function

• Feeding cycle shown and the function of the extractor and ejector explained and demonstrated as well
• Trigger operation demonstrated, along with an extreme close up and explanation of the “two stage” system
• Bolt lock-up, via camming surfaces in the lug recesses at the rear of the chamber area shown
• How the bolt sleeve lock is released to allow the bolt to rotate shut
• The bolt sleeve lock notch is also used by the safety when the bolt is closed
• Safety operation shown and described
• Why the bottom of the cocking piece has a relief machined for the sear
• Firing pin and cocking mechanics, operation of the firing pin safety flange shown and described
• Cock on opening system of the ’98 demonstrated
• Cock on closing system of the ’89 through ’96 guns shown and explained in detail
• Magazine function, what holds the floor plate in, and how the release latch works

Disassembly of the Mauser 1898

• Extensive disassembly, and instructions on how to take apart those parts/assemblies not disassembled, such as the firing pin disassembly disk, recoil lug, and front sight
• Barrel bands and upper hand guard removal shown
• Removing the action assembly and magazine, what to be aware of when removing a the trigger guard assembly
• Buttplate and bayonet lug removal
• Magazine box disassembled from trigger guard, and spring removal from floorplate and follower shown
• Floorplate retaining plunger removal shown
• Bolt stop assembly removed and disassembled
• Trigger disassembly shown
• Barrel assembly disassembly begins
• Front sight disassembly described
• Rear sight removal shown and described
• VZ-24 rear sight differences shown
• Bolt disassembled
• Firing pin and bolt sleeve assembly removed
• Extractor and collar removed
• Military firing pin disassembly aids shown
• Reason for machined flats on firing pin discussed
• You get a good look at how the various parts fit together and interact (particularly the springs) after they are removed from the gun and Ken explains things

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob & Ken” way, and what kind they like

Disassembly of the Mauser 1889 thru 1892

• The bolt is disassembled, including bolt sleeve, cocking piece, safety, and extractor
• Magazine disassembly is shown with close-up detail
• Trigger guard disassembly follows, including magazine catch
• Bolt stop is removed and disassembled
• Trigger disassembled and minor difference between it and a ’98 is noted
• Reverse order reassembly
• Alternate magazine model retention and removal shown in reference book
• Bolt reassembly

Disassembly of the Mauser 1893 thru 1896

• Differences and variations, such as bolt face, extractor removal, bolt sleeve and cocking piece removal
• What’s that hole doing in the left side of my ’93 receiver ring?
• Firing pin removal
• Trigger safety notch operation
• Model 1895 rear sight disassembly
• Model 1896 rear sight disassembly
•  

Reassembly

• Bolt reassembly, including bolt sleeve, bolt sleeve lock, cocking piece, firing pin and spring, and extractor
• Bolt stop reassembled
• Magazine and trigger guard reassembled
• Trigger reassembled
• Rear sight reassembly shown, both K-98 and VZ-24
• Trigger assembly installed
• Ejector/bolt stop assembly reinstalled
• Stock reassembled
• Barreled action installed in stock
• Trigger guard and magazine floorplate and follower reinstalled
• Final assembly, handguard and barrel bands
• Testing

Accessories and Collectables

• Books and manuals
• Original German military ammo
• “J” bore and “S” bore described
• Bayonets, cleaning kits, bolt disassembly tools, detachable magazine, and winter trigger
• “New” ’91 receiver with original crest
• .22LR Mauser military training action
• Siamese Mauser with sliding dust cover and rear staggered magazine for rimmed 8mm cartridge. Bolt face is so large that it can be modified to accept a .45/70, a common conversion for these guns

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Mauser rifle owner, or someone who intends to be.

Models 1889, 1890, 1891, 1892, 1893, 1894, 1895, 1896 and 1898 Mausers from 2 World Wars, countless smaller wars, and dozens of country\'s arsenals are back on the market in many variations. Applicable to all models and later variations. Highly detailed, Ken shows you multiple models and explains their differences. This is the most widely used, highly respected, and prolific bolt action battle rifle ever made. From 1889 when Paul Mauser began the development of his front locking military bolt actions to the near perfect Model \'98, and its rapid adoption by the Imperial German Army a century ago,  through the present day, the \'98 and its variations have been in combat somewhere in the world in every decade. Complete instructions for disassembly to the last screws and pins, inspection, cleaning, and reassembly will make you an expert on the care of these guns.
This course is designed to help all of you owners who love the gun, but are a little mystified about its workings. In true AGI fashion, we use a custom cut-away gun that allows you to actually see how the various parts work and interact.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this timeless, classic, bolt action rifle apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• Peter Paul Mauser and his brother Wilhelm were the youngest of 13 children, and their father was a Master Gunsmith at the German Imperial Firearms factory at Oberndorf. Several of their brothers worked there as well.
• One of the Mauser brothers emigrated to America and went to work for Remington
• First Mauser turn bolt design was in 1866 and was a variation on the American Dreyse “Needle Gun” design
• First success was the Model 1871, adopted by the German Army in that year
• Wilhelm and Peter Paul (Paul) Mauser founded their own company. Paul was the genius designer and Wilhelm was the bookkeeper and salesman
• Wilhelm died in 1882
• In 1888 the “Commission” rifle was adopted by the German Army. It was not a Mauser design but had two forward, 180 degree opposed, locking lugs, an idea that Paul would adopt the next year in the 1889, the first of the “modern” Mausers, and the forerunner of the 1891
• Belgium adopted the 1889
• One of Mauser’s greatest ideas was the “Stripper clip”
• !889-1891 “give aways” are the external magazine and what is now called a “Sako” style extractor
• All models through 1896 cock on closing
• From 1893 0n they have the full length claw extractor and “Controlled round” feeding
• Paul Mauser always included the best features from his previous guns in his evolutionary newer models.
• The 1898 was his perfected bolt gun
• Paul Mauser died in 1913, but the company continued on
• .22LR military training rifles were made both before and between the wars
• Mauser collecting really started in the 1950’s. Ken tells you how to tell an “original” gun
• If you have an original, DO NOT cut it up and “sporterize” it, sell it to a collector and buy a “parts” gun for sporterizing
• Mauser collectors’ books shown

Design & Function

• Feeding cycle shown and the function of the extractor and ejector explained and demonstrated as well
• Trigger operation demonstrated, along with an extreme close up and explanation of the “two stage” system
• Bolt lock-up, via camming surfaces in the lug recesses at the rear of the chamber area shown
• How the bolt sleeve lock is released to allow the bolt to rotate shut
• The bolt sleeve lock notch is also used by the safety when the bolt is closed
• Safety operation shown and described
• Why the bottom of the cocking piece has a relief machined for the sear
• Firing pin and cocking mechanics, operation of the firing pin safety flange shown and described
• Cock on opening system of the ’98 demonstrated
• Cock on closing system of the ’89 through ’96 guns shown and explained in detail
• Magazine function, what holds the floor plate in, and how the release latch works

Disassembly of the Mauser 1898

• Extensive disassembly, and instructions on how to take apart those parts/assemblies not disassembled, such as the firing pin disassembly disk, recoil lug, and front sight
• Barrel bands and upper hand guard removal shown
• Removing the action assembly and magazine, what to be aware of when removing a the trigger guard assembly
• Buttplate and bayonet lug removal
• Magazine box disassembled from trigger guard, and spring removal from floorplate and follower shown
• Floorplate retaining plunger removal shown
• Bolt stop assembly removed and disassembled
• Trigger disassembly shown
• Barrel assembly disassembly begins
• Front sight disassembly described
• Rear sight removal shown and described
• VZ-24 rear sight differences shown
• Bolt disassembled
• Firing pin and bolt sleeve assembly removed
• Extractor and collar removed
• Military firing pin disassembly aids shown
• Reason for machined flats on firing pin discussed
• You get a good look at how the various parts fit together and interact (particularly the springs) after they are removed from the gun and Ken explains things

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob & Ken” way, and what kind they like

Disassembly of the Mauser 1889 thru 1892

• The bolt is disassembled, including bolt sleeve, cocking piece, safety, and extractor
• Magazine disassembly is shown with close-up detail
• Trigger guard disassembly follows, including magazine catch
• Bolt stop is removed and disassembled
• Trigger disassembled and minor difference between it and a ’98 is noted
• Reverse order reassembly
• Alternate magazine model retention and removal shown in reference book
• Bolt reassembly

Disassembly of the Mauser 1893 thru 1896

• Differences and variations, such as bolt face, extractor removal, bolt sleeve and cocking piece removal
• What’s that hole doing in the left side of my ’93 receiver ring?
• Firing pin removal
• Trigger safety notch operation
• Model 1895 rear sight disassembly
• Model 1896 rear sight disassembly
•  

Reassembly

• Bolt reassembly, including bolt sleeve, bolt sleeve lock, cocking piece, firing pin and spring, and extractor
• Bolt stop reassembled
• Magazine and trigger guard reassembled
• Trigger reassembled
• Rear sight reassembly shown, both K-98 and VZ-24
• Trigger assembly installed
• Ejector/bolt stop assembly reinstalled
• Stock reassembled
• Barreled action installed in stock
• Trigger guard and magazine floorplate and follower reinstalled
• Final assembly, handguard and barrel bands
• Testing

Accessories and Collectables

• Books and manuals
• Original German military ammo
• “J” bore and “S” bore described
• Bayonets, cleaning kits, bolt disassembly tools, detachable magazine, and winter trigger
• “New” ’91 receiver with original crest
• .22LR Mauser military training action
• Siamese Mauser with sliding dust cover and rear staggered magazine for rimmed 8mm cartridge. Bolt face is so large that it can be modified to accept a .45/70, a common conversion for these guns

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Mauser rifle owner, or someone who intends to be.