Bob Dunlap takes you through the history, design, function, and repair of Bill Ruger’s immensely popular .22 semi-auto. The 10/22, along with the 1911 pistol and the AR-15 rifle, are the most accessorized firearms in the world. Bob uses a cut-away gun to allow you to see the operation and interaction of all of those hidden parts. If you want the “quick” course on how to get the “World’s Most Popular Rimfire Rifle” apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).

History

• Discussion of the intro of the gun in 1963, the fourth of the Ruger designs to hit the market.
• The three original styles described, along with their original price of under $80
• What made the gun different from all of its competition, and the causes of its immense and immediate popularity
• Why so many aftermarket parts and accessories became available

Design & Function

• Operation of the magazine catch demonstrated
• Operation of the bolt lock shown
• Disconnector function and operation shown
• Operation of firing pin and bolt stopping pin shown
• Feeding and ejection cycles demonstrated and two separate ejectors shown
• Sear/disconnector/hammer interaction demonstrated
• Bolt lock removed from trigger housing and operation demonstrated by putting it into position on the outside of its housing. If you want to know how to make the “Automatic Release Bolt Block, see GunTech #3, Inner Circle Connection
• Easy removal of safety shown
• Removal and operation of magazine catch shown
• Removal of bolt and captive spring/guide rod/operating handle shown
• Removal of barrel demonstrated and set-back (if necessary) method described
• Extractor removed from bolt and its operation described
• Firing pin and return spring remover from bolt and their operation described
• Magazine disassembled (no, there is NO MAGIC involved in disassembly or reassembly!) and its unique oblique feeding angle shown
• Where and what to smooth for improved operation of the magazine
• How and where to chamfer chamber mouth if necessary

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including front and rear sight

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”
• Correct assembly and tensioning of the magazine shown
• Proper fit of the extractor discussed, and the cure if it won’t hold the case on the bolt face
• Getting the safety back in, it ain’t that tough if you’ve paid attention
• How to fix things if you didn’t pay attention

Common Problems

• How to correct failure to eject, a simple cure for droopy ejector
• A simple trigger job for a simple trigger system
• Things to be careful of
• Making sure the safety is still safe, and what to do if it isn’t

Accessories

• What’s available
• What looks cool
• A sexy looking folding stock conversion
• The coolest conversion short of a full auto, for those of you that still live in free states
• The twin 10/22 goes to the range
• Heavy barrels
• Before you call us and complain that we didn’t cover your favorite doodad, or something we show isn’t available, remember that new parts and accessories come out every day, and sometimes disappear from the market just as fast

If you noticed how often the terms “shown”, “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Ruger 10/22 rifle owner, or someone who intends to be.

This video covers all of the hugely successful Ruger Double Action revolvers since the Redhawk was introduced in 1971. This means all that you need to know about the GP100, SP101, Red Hawk and Super Redhawk revolvers is here in this superb course, taught by our Senior Instructor and Master Gunsmith Bob Dunlap.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get the ‘World’s Most Overbuilt Revolver’ apart, back together, clean and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).

This course does not cover the first generation of Ruger DA revolvers, the Security Six, Speed six, and Police Six.

Among the items covered are:

History

• Discussion of the first Generation guns and Bill Ruger’s design philosophy.
• Steady improvement in the design and performance of the second and third generation revolvers
• Why Ruger’s determination to improve the quality and performance of these guns instead of saving nickels and dimes with “good enough” shortcuts leads Bob to a surprising conclusion, and for him, amazing admission
• How Ruger’s mastery of the investment casting process and his high precision results enabled him to produce very high quality and durable revolvers at a low cost

Design & Function

• Discussion of the differences between the Ruger, Colt, and Smith & Wesson cylinder locking systems, their strengths and weaknesses
• Demonstration of the Ruger locking system on the GP100 cut-away
• Why the Ruger’s DA pull, like the S&W, does not “stack” like a Colt, the operation of the primary and secondary sear system
• Single action mechanism demonstrated
• The transfer bar operation is shown, how it works in the reverse of the S&W method
• How the hand works, where it lives, and why how fat it is is as important as how tall it is
• How the hand works
• How the cylinder stop works
• What holds the yoke in place, a clever method
• Ruger cylinders are harder than your ex-wife’s lawyer’s heart. Why they are way stronger than a Colt or S&W, but why they are more dangerous when they finally do blow
• Timing issues between bolt stop and hand
• Bob shows the answer to the question; “What does the hand do and how does it do it?”
• Explanation and demonstration of the operation of the primary and secondary sears and the hammer cycle
• Explanation and demonstration of how the 2 hammer blocking safeties (sideplate and rebound slide) work, and why if someone tells you “I dropped it and it fired!”, they’re lying.
• Explanation and demonstration of the single action firing cycle with the sideplate off.
• Why the bolt also blocks the hammer with the cylinder pin out of its hole
• Cylinder lockup
• Evolution of the cylinder stop and hand over the past 50 years, “5 screw frame” and “4 screw frame” explained
• How changes in the sideplate safety have evolved and its 2 most recent iterations

Disassembly

• The Redhawk bares it all
• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including rear sight and trigger guard plunger
• Why it is a bad idea to remove the firing pin and bushing unless you have to in order to repair or replace it
• How the clever front sight retainer works
• A closer look at how the cylinder stop works
• Demonstration of the operation of the yoke plunger
• How the single hammer/trigger spring works, and its positives and negatives
• How to speed up cylinder stop timing, but what to be careful of
• How to make the special tool you’ll need to get the extractor out of the cylinder

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”
• What you need a slave pin for (watch this first and make the pin ahead of time)

Final Thoughts

• Differences between the Redhawk and GP100 guns explained, mainly separate trigger return and hammer springs.
• How to completely disassemble the rear sight, and what to be careful to avoid
• Parts to smooth to improve feel and operation

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”,  “demonstration”, and “shown” are  used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Ruger Second and Third Generation revolver owner, or someone who intends to be.

Bob Dunlap is a renowned expert on most of todays and yesterday’s important AND obscure firearms. He has been a warranty station for most manufacturers, both large and small. He understands the design, function, and repair of firearms in general, and certainly the gun that has been a major success for Ruger with Law Enforcement, foreign militaries, and the American public, the Ruger Mini-14 and all of its derivatives.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this super popular semi-auto centerfire rifle apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• Founded by Bill Ruger and Alexander Sturm in a small rented machine shop in 1949, Sturm, Ruger & Co. brought out the Mini-14 in 1971. It was their first really successful centerfire semi-auto
• The gun owes a great deal to the Garand/M-14, M-1 Carbine design, and looks somewhat like the M-14 (Duh! Hence the “Mini-14”)
• The trigger group is practically identical to those earlier guns
• There was a great buzz of anticipation when the gun was announced and a big rush to buy it when it finally hit the market
• The gun is inexpensive, reliable, and like most Rugers, a great value for the money

Design & Function

• Magazine is a great deal like the AR-15 magazine and with some work, those can be made to function in the Mini-14
• Bolt lock-up and gas system demonstrated and explained
• How the secondary sear functions as a disconnector and also provides a two stage trigger system
• Out of battery safety feature
• Bolt assembly parts’ function described
• What holds in the extractor, which holds in the firing pin, which……….
• Gas nozzle and action bar system bears a resemblance to that of the Remington 742 and is very trouble free
• Demonstration and explanation of how the magazine retaining system operates, from the magazine catch to the recoil spring powered plunger that holds the front
• Demonstration and explanation of how the bolt stop is actuated and operates, both by the magazine follower and the manual over ride button
• How the cam slot design in the operating rod actuates the bolt
• How the windage and elevation knobs of the rear sight operate with a bullet nose
• Fire control system and safety operation are demonstrated and explained
• How the safety moves the hammer off of the sear and blocks the trigger
• How the hammer actually rotates the bolt to complete lock up if the cycle is slightly out of time
• Cartridge feeding cycle demonstrated and explained
•  Ejector operation

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, and instructions on how to take apart those parts/assemblies not disassembled, and explanation of why some assemblies are NOT to be disassembled
• Field stripping
• Bolt stop removal
• Gas block removal
• Magazine plunger removal
• Rear sight information
• Bolt disassembly
• Trigger group disassembly
• Pay particular attention to the magazine catch disassembly
• You get a good look at how the various parts fit together and interact (particularly the springs) after they are removed from the gun and Bob “’splains” things

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob” way, and what kind he likes

Reassembly

• Pins, slave and tapered, hook, punches, etc. Helpful tools to help you get this gun back together easier
• Gas block reassembly
• Bolt reassembly and troubleshooting
• How to correct the poorly fitted extractor, “putting the squeeze on”
• Extractor configuration and rules shown and explained
• Trigger group reassembly and troubleshooting
• How to do a simple, yet effective, trigger job, but why Bob thinks you should not do so
• Positive and negative sear/hammer engagement is VERY important
• Make sure that the safety is SAFE and properly fitted
• If you don’t understand the preceding three sections completely, get the “Trigger Jobs” course (the Garand Trigger course will work here), or take the gun to a qualified, professional gunsmith. Be Safe, not Sorry!

Accessories

• Rear sight adjustment tool
• Replacement apertures
• Butt pad/extender
• Scope mount
• Stocks
• Handguards
• Magazines
• Muzzle brakes
• Flash suppressor/sight combo

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Ruger Mini-14 owner, or someone who intends to be.

Bob Dunlap is a renowned expert on most of todays and yesterday’s important AND obscure firearms. He has been a warranty station for most manufacturers, both large and small. He understands the design, function, and repair of firearms in general, and certainly the gun that got Ruger off on a successful footing, the Ruger Standard Auto. We use a cut-away gun to let you actually see how the pistol and all of its components operates. This latest version of the course covers the new MKIII and the 22/45 MKIII versions of the gun.

Bob Dunlap takes you through the design, function, and repair of Bill Ruger’s wildly popular revolver, using a cut-away gun so that you can actually see the parts’ function and interaction. Included are tips on how to spot and correct common problems. If you want the “quick” course on how to get the “World’s Most Popular Single Action Revolver” apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).

Among the items covered are:

History

• History and origins of Sturm, Ruger Firearms Co. in 1949
• The Ruger Standard Auto, the gun that made the company into a successful business
• 1953, their first revolver, the Single Six, flat loading gate and all
• 1955 saw the first center fire, the Blackhawk, and the small .22 Rimfire Bearcat
• Super Blackhawk, large frame .44 Remington Magnum, debuts in 1959
• 1960 sees debut of .44 Mag Deerslayer semi-auto carbine
• In 1963 the Hawkeye single shot on a Blackhawk frame arrives in .256 Winchester Magnum
• Ruger’s most successful design, the 10/22 hits the market
• In 1973 the Famous new Model Blackhawks arrived, the first six guns safe to carry with 6 rounds
• Various kinds of firearms follow
• 1992 the Vaquero arrives
• Various Blackhawk and Single Six models shown

Safety Conversion Unit

• Differences between the Old & New Models
• How the transfer bar works
• Weaknesses of the original Colt design
• A cautionary tale
• Ruger brings out a conversion unit for the Old Model SA’s
• Who originally invented the transfer bar
• Ruger wants all Old Models sent to them for conversion at no charge
• Original parts will be returned to you
• Loading gate and loading notch on hammer work as originally designed

Design & Function

• Visual demonstration of the interaction of all parts during the firing cycle
• How opening the loading gate releases the cylinder stop
• Explanation and demonstration of how the base pin plunger allows the transfer bar to work
• See how the hand does its job, the two stage operation
• A clear explanation and demonstration of how the hammer and trigger interact with the transfer bar
• Why the hand spring is a much superior design than that of the Colt

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including firing pin

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”
• Disassembly and reassembly of an Old Model with the conversion unit
• Repairing an over-tightened grip panel

Common Problems/Repairs

• Subject revolver has rotational play, endshake, and times up slow (what these mean, and how to correct them)
• Correcting the endshake, it ain’t easy, but this is how you do it
• How to correct the rotational slop
• Ruger springs are designed for Rugers, stay away from aftermarket springs other than Wolfe
• Be careful of “trigger jobs”, since most Ruger hammer/sear engagement are negative. They must be positive if you do a trigger job. If you don’t understand positive and negative engagement angles, get the Trigger Course
• Correcting the timing issue, stretching the point

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Ruger single action  revolver owner, or someone who intends to be.

Bob Dunlap is a renowned expert on many firearms, including the Smith & Wesson Auto-Pistols. This video covers the First, Second, and Third Generations of these very popular guns. This course does NOT cover the later model Sigma and M&P guns. Bob uses a cut away gun so that you can actually see how the internal parts function and their relationship to one another.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get these guns apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• The Model 39 was the first of the Smith & Wesson auto pistols to hit the market, this occurred in the mid 1950’s. These were, along with the Walther PP/PPK/P-38 guns, the first successful DA Semi Auto pistols to reach the market
• Next to arrive was the Model 59, which added “Hi-Cap” magazines to the mix
• Both the 39 and 59 and the Second Gen guns had safety notches in the hammer, the later guns did not
• The Second Gen guns came out in the late 1970’s and proved very popular with the Law Enforcement market, leading the charge away from revolvers to the Latest and Greatest “Wonder Nine” du jour. This, coincidentally, also led the charge away from marksmanship and to “Firepower”
• The Third Gen guns came along in the late 1980’s and were a marked improvement
• Third Gen guns also “felt” the best

Design & Function

• Explanation and demonstration of the “Short recoil, tipping barrel, locked breech” operating system
• One of the first pistols to use the breech end of the barrel as a locking lug
• Bob shows the answer to the question; “What causes the barrel and slide to lock and unlock and how does it do it?”
• How the magazine safety/disconnector/ejector depressor system operates
• Firing/loading/unloading cycle explained and demonstrated
• Does the extractor really extract?
• How to know that the extractor is NOT fulfilling its primary function
• First Gen and early Second Gen extractors described
• How the trigger drawbar cocks and lets the hammer fall
• How the sear depressor/safety/de-cocker/firing pin block works
•  Explanation and demonstration of the trigger actuated firing pin blocking safety
• Lower end taken apart and the details of the individual fire control parts shown and their inter-relationship described
• What surfaces to keep your pistol smoothing efforts away from
• What four parts cause the disconnector to do its job?
• How the hammer drop/safety blocks the firing pin
• Operation of the magazine catch shown
• How the slide stop works, and how it works with the magazine empty
• What to avoid if you don’t want to hear silence instead of “bang” with the Model 39

Disassembly

• Pay attention to the parts orientation while disassembling, a digital camera is very helpful to take pictures of the parts before you remove them
• Extensive disassembly, variances between different models and generations described parts not removed have removal described, i. e., the trigger pin detent plunger and the hammer strut
• Slide stop pin removal procedure difference between the S&W’s and the 1911
• Three different styles of right side ambi-safety retaining systems shown
•  See a clever, cheap, and simple tool you can make to make the magazine catch removal easier

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, a hair dryer, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• What oil Bob likes to lube the gun with during assembly

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”
• Getting the right springs in the right place
• In many cases the order of assembly is important, Bob shows you the correct order
• Getting the right pieces in the right places, the easiest way possible
• Using the proper tool to help you line up the parts to accept their pins
• Multiple models differences are discussed and, in many cases, demonstrated
• How to make sure that the extractor is doing its job
• What is moment of mass?
• Proper shape of extractor hook
• How to make sure you have tight sights
• Fixing the firing pin so that it doesn’t pierce primers or shave brass on extraction
•  Stay away from the trigger drawbar notches if you get the irresistible urge to “improve” the trigger pull, it’s cheaper to send the gun to someone who knows what they’re doing than to buy a new drawbar
• Improving feeding

Accessories

• Because of the wide variation of configuration in the various models, aftermarket accessory manufacturers have a “fit” problem
• What is useful
• What to avoid and why, springs and things
• LATE MENTION – What to look for on a Third Gen one piece grip, and who will replace it if it’s “missing its mark”

Final Thoughts and Wrap- up

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “visual demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Smith & Wesson semi-auto owner, or someone who intends to be.

• Smith & Wesson Revolvers

Bob Dunlap understands the design, function, and repair of Horace Smith and Daniel Wesson’s masterpiece, the modern cartridge revolver, as well or better than anyone else alive today. If you want the “quick” course on how to get the ‘World’s Most Popular Revolver’ apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).






Among the items covered are:

History

• Discussion of the Rollin White Patent of the Bored-through cylinder

• S&W Model 1, .22 Short, first modern revolver with self-contained cartridge

• Discussion of frame sizes and basic similarity of All Smith revolvers since the beginning of the 20th century

Design & Function

• Explanation and demonstration of the double action firing cycle with the sideplate off.
• Timing issues between bolt stop and hand
• Bob shows the answer to the question; “What does the hand do and how does it do it?”
• Explanation and demonstration of the operation of the primary and secondary sears and the hammer cycle
• Explanation and demonstration of how the 2 hammer blocking safeties (sideplate and rebound slide) work, and why if someone tells you “I dropped it and it fired!”, they’re lying.
• Explanation and demonstration of the single action firing cycle with the sideplate off.
• Why the bolt also blocks the hammer with the cylinder pin out of its hole
• Cylinder lockup
• Evolution of the cylinder stop and hand over the past 50 years, “5 screw frame” and “4 screw frame” explained
• How changes in the sideplate safety have evolved and its 2 most recent iterations
• A new bolt blocking slide safety is shown

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly, parts not removed have removal described, including barrel and front sight
•  Endshake described

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left over”

Common Problems

• Right and left “Sing” explained, and why the Fat Lady must do so to get a bang from this show
• Getting the hand to “Peep” through the window when it should, and get out of it when it must
• “Sear Click”, what it is, why you don’t want it, and how you get rid of it
• How over-fixing “Sear Click” can lead to “Transitional Bind”, and how you fix your fix
• Does the cylinder stop go into each cylinder recess when it should (“Time Up”), and how to make it do so
• The dangers of “Push Off” and how to correct that too

SPECIAL BONUS – Basic Smooth & Tune

• What to do if the bolt stops before the center pin, and why
• What and how to smooth and how far to go
• What NOT to stone and why
• What to be very careful of in the earlier stainless steel revolvers
• What angles need to be maintained
• What to do AFTER the stoning and reassembly

Accessories

• What to use
• What to avoid and why

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “visual demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Smith & Wesson revolver owner, or someone who intends to be.

Savage 10 and 110 Series Bolt action Rifles

Darrell Holland does his first Armorer’s course (although certainly not his first AGI course by any means) on the Savage 110 series of rifles. These bargain priced rifles may not be the most classic looking bolt guns with their prominent barrel collar nut, but that same part helps make them about the most accurate, “Out of the Box”, guns this side of much pricier full custom guns (such as Darrell’s own). All of the guns from the Model 10 to the 116 (if the number starts “11”, it is a long action, if it’s “1”, “10” or “12”, it’s a short action) are covered in this course, as well as barrel and caliber swaps and the new AccuTrigger.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this superbly accurate, innovative, and value priced rifle apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).

History

• Discussion of the period after World War II and Remington’s new rifles (721 & 722), and Winchester’s re-invigoration of its pre-’64 Model 70. Savage was way behind the new rifle curve.
• Savage gives the new rifle project to former savage employee and WW II Browning M2 Project Manager, Nicholas Brewer in 1955.
• Brewer and Savage engineer Ed Stark had gun ready for production by 1956, but Brewer died of cancer that same year, and never saw the rifle go into production
• In 1964 Savage hires Bob Greenleaf to refine the rifle
• Model was originally called the Model 98, but name was changed to the 110, in .270 Winchester and .30/06, and it was priced at $109.75
•  Savage was among the first to make left handed rifles, it was so popular that sales were initially 4 – 1, left handed vs right
• During the ‘70s development continued, and the single shot Model 12 Varmint/Target was introduced

Design & Function

• Savage’s unique baffle design of the bolt seals off the bolt lug raceways in the event of case rupture
• Mr. Brewer’s multiple piece bolt design is shown
• Extractor cam and cocking stud in the rear of the bolt are discussed
• The sliding tang safety, unique at the time
• The rifle’s single position feed magazine shown and advantages discussed
• The sliding plate extractor is shown, a Brewer design later copied by Winchester
• Advantage of the small diameter ejector plunger discussed
• Why the small amount of “play” in the bolt head is a good thing
• Advantages of the same diameter front and rear receiver rings discussed
• Why the socket head receiver screws are a good idea
• The famous Savage barrel nut, “Brewer’s Baby”, its multiple advantages
• The tabbed recoil lug washer is shown
• No feed rails in the receiver, Where have they gone?
• Why every gun company added anti-bind lugs and slots to their bolt guns after WW II, and Savage’s take on the feature
• How the new AccuTrigger works, or how you “Lawyer Proof” a gun that will allow you to adjust the pull down to 1 ½ pounds…..from the factory! They even give you a tool to do it with, what a concept!
• The feeding and extraction/ejection cycle detailed
• How much “Pick Up” by the bolt face you need for proper feeding
• Where the ejector plunger should NOT go
• How the tang safety works, and what to do (and NOT do) if it is not working properly
• The Model 12 shown and why the right hand gun has its loading and ejection port on the LEFT side! No, it is NOT a mistake
• Target features such as heavy barrel and thicker recoil lug shown
• Why the H&S stock produces such good accuracy
• What Savage could eliminate and save a few bucks on the manufacturing cost
• Target optimized differences in the Model 12’s AccuTrigger, why the blade is orange, and why you have to close the bolt slowly!
• How the primary extraction cam and the cocking stud operate
• Darrell’s unique take on the steps southpaws need to take to get more guns designed for them

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly performed
• Short and long action screws, they are NOT interchangeable
• How the blind magazine box comes out, and it ain’t easy!
• How to adjust the magazine spring
• Complete disassembly and explanation of the operation of the AccuTrigger
• Bolt disassembly and final review

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use

Reassembly

• Making sure you have no parts “Left-overs”, and everything is facing the right direction
• Special lubrication points

SPECIAL BONUS – Headspacing and Changing Barrels

• How to keep from scratching the new barrel
• Making your headspace “Go” gauge work as a Savage headspace gauge
• How to make sure your handloaded cartridges have not had the shoulders “bumped” back

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any Savage 10 Series rifle owner, or someone who intends to be.

SIG Auto Pistols

The SIG pistol, in all of its models and iterations, is one of the highest quality and most respected handguns currently produced by experts in Law Enforcement and the world’s militaries. It is in use by, and favored by many of the most elite tactical units in the world.
Bob Dunlap is a renowned expert on most of todays and yesterday’s important AND obscure firearms. He has been a warranty station for most manufacturers, both large and small. His understanding of the design, function, and repair of firearms in general is unsurpassed, and his appreciation of European and exotic arms is legendary among his students. This course is designed to help all of you SIG owners who love the gun, but are a little mystified about its workings. In typical AGI fashion, we use a factory cut-away gun that allows you to actually see how the various parts work and interact.

If you want the “quick” course on how to get this German/Swiss classic semi-auto pistol apart, back together, and operating as intended, then this course is for you (if you want the “long course”, look into our basic 108 hour Professional Gunsmith course).
Among the items covered are:

History

• The P220 series is generally felt to be the Cadillac of auto pistols
• The P210 was considered the Rolls Royce
• High quality and priced to match
• Pistol began production in 1936
• The locking system was original with the P210, and continues in the P220 series
• P220 series is DA, so the pistol is different from the P210 from the chamber back
• The P210 was made by the Swiss company SIG, but the P220 series is made by SIG-Sauer and manufactured in Germany
• The first P220’s had the European style mag catch at the bottom rear of the magwell. Later guns switched to the American style behind the trigger guard
• The Browning BDA is really a P220

Design & Function

• Barrel lock-up, the SIG system, AKA “barrel bind” at the muzzle bushing
• The cam system; what causes unlocking of the barrel from the slide and then forces it to rise into engagement
• Safety features shown and demonstrated; the firing pin blocking safety, the disconnector blocking operation of the firing pin blocking safety if the gun is not locked up, and the inability of the hammer to go forward if the trigger is not pulled
• The operation of the disconnector is shown and explained
• There is no manual safety
• The double action system operation
• How to check the engagement angles in the system
• The decocking system operation shown and demonstrated
• The feeding cycle
• Which edges need to be broken to enhance feeding
• The firing cycle shown, including extraction and ejection
• Observing the extractor closely or feeling it will tell you whether or not there is a round in the chamber

Disassembly

• Extensive disassembly; both the P220 and P229 are disassembled
• Magazine disassembled
• Field stripping of gun
• Slide disassembly, be careful of the firing pin retaining pin, it goes the “Wrong” way, and the extractor
• Grip removal. Take a look and you will see why many LE organizations, including the Los Angeles PD and SO, did not buy the gun
• Takedown lever and locking block removal shown in detail. Observe carefully the orientation of the trigger pin
• Trigger, slide stop, and drawbar removal shown
• Hammer drop assembly removed , explained and demonstrated
• Mainspring, hammer, ejector, and sear removal
• How the hammer rebound spring works
• Magazine catch removal shown
• Variances with older models
• P220 top end disassembly shown, and breech face retaining pin caution given
• One piece extractor removed
• The hammer stop does not have a spring, the firing pin spring rebounds the hammer
• Pulling the trigger a short way in the DA mode will allow the sear to fall into the safe notch on the hammer, just like the TZ-75 and Witness B. This allows the next pull to be much shorter
• Butt mag catch removed
• You get a good look at how the various parts fit together and interact (particularly the springs) after they are removed from the gun and Bob explains things and their interoperation

Cleaning & Lubrication

• AGI cleaning & lubrication methods shown, along with the reasons for their use
• After cleaning, dry with air gun, or in the oven on Warm ~185-200 degrees (metal parts ONLY)
• Lubing the “Bob” way, and what kind he likes

Reassembly

• Magazine reassembled
• Slide reassembled, extractor problem shown, and its cure.
• Extractor reassembled
• Firing pin and safety reassembled
• Magazine catch reassembled, how to reverse if desired
• Hammer rebound installed
• Hammer drop reassembled
• Hammer, sear, and ejector reassembled
• Trigger and trigger bar reassembled
• Locking block and takedown lever reassembly shown, be sure that the trigger pin has its relief slots on the bottom
• Trigger spring and mainspring reassembly
• Grips and final reassembly
• Function checks demonstrated

Troubleshooting

• DA trigger pull checks and fixes
• Feeding issues
• Magazine preventive maintenance
• Extractor fit
• Firing pin safety
• Hot load caution
• Summary

Accessories

• Nothing really necessary

If you noticed how often the terms “explanation”, and “demonstration” are used, you may be getting some idea of why this course is a “must have” for any SIG auto pistol owner, or someone who intends to be.